Banned on Trains, Loved in Malang: A Durian Story
It’s more than just a stinky fruit. Follow the "Natural GPS" as we walk through Malang to uncover the rich history and deep flavors that define the spirit of the archipelago.
Muhammad Darman M
5/2/20262 min read
"I saw the signs on the train, it’s banned!" a Dutch traveller laughed as we walked to Happy Durian. "Is it because of the spikes or the smell?"
"It is because of the smell," I answered. "But it’s not trying to be stinky. It’s just trying to be found."
I explained to him that in the wild, that thick, heavy aroma triggers a 'Natural GPS' for animals. This scent is how the tree survives; it calls out to elephants and orangutans from miles away because the jungle is often too thick to see through.
"And when it comes to the taste," I continued, "maybe the best way to describe Durian is like what Alfred Russel Wallace said: A rich butter-like custard highly flavoured with almonds."
"But he didn't stop there. He said it’s a mix of strange things, like cream cheese and even a hint of onion sauce. It sounds crazy, but that’s the magic of it. It’s a flavor you can’t find anywhere else in the world."
He looked at me, surprised. "Alfred Russel Wallace? The scientist?"
"Exactly! The one who discovered the Wallace Line, the invisible boundary between the animals of West and East Indonesia. He spent years exploring these islands."
An original archive of Wallace’s notes on the habits of the Orang Utan, documenting how these animals traverse the forest in search of fruit trees—the very same trees, like the Durian, that he later described in his famous journals.
We sat there, enjoying the local Malang durian, and as our conversation shifted from the fruit to the islands, I realized this is what traveling in Indonesia is really about. It’s more than just Bromo, Tumpak Sewu, or the usual spots in Bali. It is bigger and deeper than that. Every island has its own 'King of Fruits' and its own secrets.
I was going to mention the nutmeg on Banda Island, but I changed my mind. I could see he wasn't ready for that dark history just yet. Some stories need the right moment.
Starting here in Malang with a durian is just the first step of the journey.
"So, are you ready to see the story, not just the scenery?"
"Yes, let's walk!" he laughed.
